Return of the Nozzle Selector


Tools/Items Used

-M3 slotted screw
-2x M3 sized threaded nuts
-M3 taper tap
-M3 die thread cutter
-Bench drill press
-Hand held drill
-Flat filing drill piece
-File
-Spring
-Cutters
-Washers
-Various drill bits
-Loctite superglue
-Pliers

And now the final big part, and yes I know what you are thinking, that’s a pretty big list of parts!  However they are all needed for this job of putting the 2500’s nozzle selector on better than how it is stock.

I will also say that this would have been easier if I had kept the little piece that slots over the top of the small piece the screw threads into, however I didn’t have that so had to find another way around.

And now time to get started on how I got the 2500 nozzle firmly on while not needing to wear away at the screw thread quicker than Kojak at the lollies.

First, I needed a new screw itself, I had put in a screw that is the next size up from the stock screw size for the nozzle, as I had opened the 2500 once before, predictably making the original screw useless when it comes to putting it back on and creating a tight seal.  I got a pack of M3 sized slotted screws, which was the perfect size.  Also next to it you see 2 M3 sized threaded nuts, I’ll need these later.

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With a tap and die set that was recently purchased, an M3 taper tap is needed next.

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This is going to be used to drill into the screw hole of the nozzle piece, so that the M3 slotted screw has a perfect and smooth fit in there when screwed in.

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With that done, a quick test to see if the screw went in well until it touched the wall and tightened was done, which it worked, however we are NOT fitting this in YET.

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Next is where things get a little more involved, we want this screw basically like a fully threaded bolt with no lump on the end.  Remember those two nuts earlier?  We want them to screw onto the front and lock things in place.

With the screw held in the bench drill, for an even filing down, a hand drill was used with a filing piece to file down the lump at the end while it was spinning around in the bench drill.

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When it was getting near to completion, a normal hand file was used with the screw still spinning in the drill press.

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Now in order for the nuts to screw over, the whole screw needs to be threaded, where at the front it still isn’t.  This is where the M3 sized dye comes in handy, with one of those handy from the set, an M3 sized thread the same as on the whole screw was carved in with it.

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It now looks like this and is taking shape.  The great thing is that at the front there is still a flathead grip so I can still use a flathead screwdriver to screw it into the nozzle when ready.

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Next we are not actually far from completion, now time to move back to the nozzle selector piece.  A spring that is just big enough to fit down the middle of the nozzle piece is needed, I had a box of springs and found one just right.  A bit of pipe would be better, however finding the right size is difficult and I had nothing that was compatible.  A spring works though.

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Now this is where the washers and nuts come in.  The spring here needed to be cut to around 60% of what it was originally in the last pic.

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And this next picture show roughly how it is all going to line up, I think you might get the picture of what eventually it will look like and how it is supposed to work.  The spring is going to compress down with the washer just the right size to cover it and fit between the nozzles, whilst also being the perfect size on the inside hole to go over the M3 screw thread.  The nuts will then fit over that to seal it.

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First though something needs to be done to relieve a lot of the pressure the spring may put on the plastic.  Another washer the same size as the one seen earlier was used (I couldn’t find another one that had a larger inner diameter hole at home), and then carefully drilled into while being held carefully with pliers into the bench drill with various sizes until the hole inside was big enough to be the same size as the hole it would be covering in the middle of the nozzle selector piece, as seen below.

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With pretty much everything ready, in the words of Mr T, it’s time to ‘get some nuts ARGH!’

First, the superglue is needed again.  Put a drop of it down the hole of where the screw is going in, upon doing so I started to screw in the now modified M3 slotted in until it stopped snug at the end.  The glue helps it have a tighter fit and seal.

Then the nozzle selector piece was put and held over, remembering to put the washer with the enlarged inner hole in first.  The spring then goes on with the second washer in front of that.  All that is left to do is get those two nuts and thread them down to the point of pretty much compressing and flattening the spring fully, which creates the tight locking seal.  I had to use pliers as I didn’t have a special piece to grip the nuts with.  I’m not talking about boobs either with all the mention of nuts.

One final thing that is essential to do if you are doing this, when you have put the first nut over as tight as you feel it necessary, put a drop of Loctite superglue on the front of the nut so that it soaks into the thread.  Then screw the second nut over that to seal that first nut in with the glue, and then also put superglue over the second nut at the front of it so it soaks into the threads again.  If you don’t do this as I found out, after some turns of the nozzle selector it ends up turning the nuts loose with it as you are adjusting the settings.  Because it looser this causes the 5x and 10x nozzles to fire water out the sides.  Super gluing the nuts and letting it set solved this problem, and now the nuts don’t move at all and you can change nozzles to your heart’s content without issue.  You can still easily gets the nuts off and free the glue if you need to open things up again.  Just repeat the process again of putting the nozzle back on.  It might be a bit more work, but at least it’s better than not being able to put the nozzle back on at all like before now that the screw thread is just there as a guide now and is not needed to be taken out again.

Here’s how the completed new selector mechanism looks.

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We are pretty much all finished here, doing all that was fiddly but it has worked after all!