SS 300 Trigger Mechanism

A few days ago I received a broken SS 300 which needed more work doing to it than intended, as it had a lot of unmentioned, so this repair with a few other repairs show how to repair these problems.

What you need:

-Screwdrivers
-Epoxy
-Fizzy pop can
-Drill
-Sandpaper
-Chemical (optional)
-Metal ruler
-Pen
-Scissors

Now, let's get onto the problem.

When I got the gun, it didn't even fire; the trigger lever had no resistance when pulling and was loose.  I could only assume something has disconnected on the inside where the inner workings are, my suspicions were correct, there was, so I had to open it.

So that means, first thing, open the gun.  This means you need your standard screwdriver and flathead screwdriver.  I should warn you it can be rather fiddly, as there are a fair few glued parts, most noticeable the pump cap, which means you will want to permanently remove it, unless you’re really careful, patient and lucky.  Either way, it doesn't matter; even with the pump cap gone it won't affect your gun.  The front orange plastic piece by the gun comes off easily and quite cleanly with not much force, the orange piece right at the back where the guns hose connection goes in also came off nicely for me, again just be a bit patient and slow then it will come off nicely.  You really if I were you make sure you get this piece of in one piece, as it holds the back part together and also supports the hose connection when it slots in.  Then you have another piece you need to pry off just above where the handle connects.  Just below each pressure chamber, there are 3 purple rings that are there which again are attached to the plastic below.  Pry these off, or just remove them, I removed mine as two of them were already snapped and the other looked a bit strange on its own so I took them off, again, it makes no difference either way.  Once you have got through all these and undone all the screws, open the gun up, it'll take a bit of gentle force to get it off because of the purple plastic piece above the handle, but it will be open able.

When I opened the gun getting to the trigger mechanism, I found my problem.

As you can see, the trigger is operated by two gears, the top gear turning the bottom gear (which is a ball valve, much better and simpler than today’s crappy ones), making the gun fire.  The top gear had most likely from age or heavy use cracked in half.

Now, onto fixing it.  Just giving it a bit of epoxy with nothing else won't do it.  However you still need to use epoxy, first by epoxying both halves together at first like this.

Let this dry for about a day just to be safe, this fix requires patience as much strong protection as possible.  Next, you'll need a can of fizzy pop which while harder to do should be made of steel (they are in aluminum as well, however it is untested here for what we are doing next).  Once you have the can emptied and dried, then cut with scissors until you end up with a sheet of steel like this.  You also need to sand it down to make it look shiny and get off the decorations, you may also need some sort of chemical to also get it off quicker.

Next, you need to get a drill bit which can drill a hole in the steel sheet about the same size as the raised up part on the front of the gear so it can fit over it to add as a layer for the protection method.  This then covers the front of the gear and gives it solid protection over both of the split halves.  However DON'T glue it on yet, you'll find out as you scroll down and read on.

Next you need to do folding and measuring.  Measure the width and sides and you also need to look at the back of the piece as it is not flat, so you'll also need to do some measurements on that, using the ruler to mark measurements as well as folding the bits of metal which you have marked out with a pen.  You also need to use scissors to cut out little slits as the sides of the gear aren't fully square at the top.  This is rather tricky and may take a while; I had to get my Dad help me with this bit.  After all this you'll be glad to know the most tricky bit is over, now it is just onto gluing and letting to dry again.  You should end up with something like this to cover the gear.

Next onto the gluing, if you've done the measurement well, then it should go on nicely, you may need to do some tweakage, but either way just keep trying until you get what you feel will be good, as this is most important part as it is where the big protection.  Now, epoxy on the front part which will go on the front of the gear ONLY, DO NOT glue the back part.  You need to once the front part is glued on is wait again for about a day to make sure the glue has fully set.  You should get something like this.

Once it is fully dry, do the same with the back and epoxy that on, it will be a harder, since unlike the front it isn't very level, you need push some of the steel into the deep bits and bend other parts back to go round the sides on the inside as best you can.  It won't come out perfect, but it should do hopefully.  You should get something like this.  Once, give about a day to set fully set.

Now the final part, go back to the front, and apply some more epoxy around there over the raised part to give the steel some more protection trapping it, like this.  Again, give time to dry.

Now, all we need to do now is screw it back on in alignment with the bottom gear.  Make sure you get it in the right position on the gear, as first time I did this wrong which made the gun continue firing even when I stopped.  Below is how it should be correct.

When this is finished, put your gun back together (I replaced every screw since they were getting old and rusted, depending on condition of yours, you may want to do the same).  Despite the other problems mine has which I'm fixing, the gun worked and gave a very soaking stream, I had a working SS 300 in my hands again.

If you did the same as this, it should work, congratulations!

©DukeSoakem. All rights reserved. Violaters will be soaked, survivors will be soaked again. Best viewed in Firefox.